There are two ways of thinking about foods we used to hate. First, regret for missing so many year

There are two ways of thinking about foods we used to hate. First, regret for missing so many years of oysters or chunky peanut butter or what have you. Second, gratitude that there is still something new to be discovered at the table, foods that were waiting in the wings to come on stage and take us by surprise. I take the second pumpkin path with sweet potatoes, the tragic victim of marshmallow-topped sludge in my impressionable childhood, but now one of my chief food loves.
This is a version of a dish I've been making regularly for several years. It was inspired originally by the cilantro pesto in Heidi Swanson's Supernatural pumpkin Every Day (you can see the recipe here ). I had made pesto out of basil, arugula, sage, kale, and nearly every other green that had come my way, but somehow I had missed cilantro. Its sour, savory freshness was a revelation in pesto, both heightened and mellowed. I make it more frequently than basil pesto now, changing it up every time sometimes with almonds, then with walnut pumpkin oil, now with Gruyere.
But this time I took a different tack. I often crave that cilantro chutney you find in little dishes at Indian restaurants the one with coconut and a dash of heat. I melded the two in this pesto, adding coconut and a handful of pistachios instead of cheese or pine nuts. It's a fully vegan pesto, and one with extra richness on top of the sweet potatoes it's unexpectedly pumpkin filling.
I only learned to love sweet potatoes a few years ago I've lived most of my adult life without them. And while I'm sorry for the years I missed, I'm not too sorry, because when we see foods fresh, when our palate suddenly pumpkin wakes up to them, there's both inspiration and excitement in that discovery. Like cilantro, and coconut, and sweet potatoes, and garlic all together. If that's not exciting, please tell me what is.
For the pesto: 2 bunches cilantro 3/4 cup unsweetened shredded coconut 3/4 cup shelled pistachios 4 cloves garlic 1 hot pepper such as jalapeño or Thai, optional 1 lemon, juiced 1/4 cup vegetable pumpkin or olive oil Salt to taste
Heat the oven to 450 F. Slice the sweet potatoes in rounds about 1/2-inch-thick. Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet and brush with the olive oil. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Roast for 20 to 30 minutes, or until tender pumpkin and slightly browned.
While the sweet potatoes are roasting, pumpkin make the pesto. Roughly chop the cilantro and blend both leaves and stems with the coconut, pistachios, garlic, hot pepper (if using), and lemon juice. Add 2 tablespoons of oil and blend until smooth. Add the rest, if desired. Taste and add salt (or more garlic, or more acid) until satisfied. If desired, thin the pesto with water to make it spreadable.
When sweet potatoes are cooked through, spread on a platter and top with pesto. Serve immediately. Recipe Notes On Pesto: I am of the rather severe opinion that if a cook doesn't like the way a pesto turns out, it's no one's fault but the cook's! Pesto is by its nature a this-and-that recipe; your results will vary by a mile from mine depending on your herbs, your taste for salt, and your opinion on acid. This is an unusual pesto, so I strongly suggest adding only a little salt and lemon juice, or a quarter of a pepper, and tasting, before adding the rest. Keep tweaking until you love it! Nut-Free Adaptation: The pistachios can be left out. They make this a little nuttier and more interesting in texture, but the pesto is still very good without them. You can also substitute pumpkin another nut, or seeds such as pumpkin (pepitas) or sunflower.
Sugars
Faith is the executive editor pumpkin of The Kitchn and the author of three cookbooks. They include Bakeless Sweets (Spring 2013) as well as The Kitchn's first cookbook, which will be published in Fall 2014. She lives in Columbus, Ohio with her husband Mike.
This looks beautiful, as well as extremely delicious! And if the sweet potatoes are sliced thinner & roasted a bit crisper, then it could turn into an appetizer..... yummy. I'm going to try as soon as I get sweet potatoes from our farm share! pumpkin
Love your opening paragraph. I too choose to take the second option, feeling that way about onions, Brussels sprouts and many other vegetables, pumpkin and coconut. Gradually getting into eating all these new foods has really made my cooking (and eating!) so much more exciting.
This pumpkin sounds amazing! Definitely going to try this soon. I'm wondering, though, what it should be served with. Is it best as a side dish? ... maybe alongside a piece of simply grilled fish) ... Or an appetizer, perhaps? Suggestions??
@Gwendolyn_ATX that's a great question. I usually serve these as part of a vegetarian menu, since they're such a great veg main dish. But the other night I served them with just a little meat. Chicken thighs are great, as are meatballs. But it also makes a filling dinner with a solid grain salad or greens.
How convent that this article came ou